Art & Culture · Topic 13 of 16

Crafts, Textiles and GI Tags

Major Indian handicraft and textile traditions and the concept of Geographical Indication

Indian Textile Traditions Overview

The Basics

Long before the Mughals or the British, India already had a well-organised textile industry. Weavers sold cloth at local fairs. At a higher level, powerful merchant guilds controlled the textile trade. In early medieval South India, weavers formed their own guilds, known as samaya pattagara, saliya samayangal, and seniya pattagara. These weavers were prosperous enough to donate money, livestock, land, and cloth to temples. Some weavers were even given managerial roles in temple finances. In return, they were exempted from taxes. The Vijayanagara period, in the 15th and 16th centuries, saw the weaving industry reach a high point. Weaver castes migrated across South India in search of patronage and markets.

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Traditional Sarees of India

The Basics

By the time regional weaving centres had matured, each began producing a saree with its own identity. Each used local silk or cotton, local motifs and local techniques of zari or dyeing. These sarees did not appear from nothing. They grew out of fibre and guild traditions already established in Bengal, Gujarat, Uttar Pradesh and the South. Each centre shaped the craft to its own taste and patronage.

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